[“Let Inga Tell
You,” La Jolla Light, published August 29, 2018] ©2018
Recently
I noticed a recipe in AARP Magazine for Kimchi Stew which I cut out for
Olof. I noted that Kimchi Stew combined his two least favorite foods – kimchi
(popular with his first wife) and tofu – into what would be his Ultimate Worst
Meal.
OK,
maybe penultimate worst meal. When we lived in Sweden, we were determined to
try everything, including a sour fermented herring called surströmming.
I think the best approximation of the smell would be rotting corpses awash in a
massive sewer backup. The recipe is as follows: “This dish is prepared from the
small Baltic herring, which is salted and set aside for a rather long time.
When the souring process (a process of controlled rotting or fermentation) has
got under way, the fish is put up in hermetically sealed tins, which are
distinctly swollen by the time they are ready for sale. A pungent aroma –
delectable to some, repulsive to others – fills the room whenever a can is
opened. By ordinance, the year’s supply of sour herring may begin to be sold
on the third Thursday in August, and this signals the start of festivities.”
OK,
so already you’re wondering where the words “delectable” and “festivities” come
into this. Putting a sales embargo on this year’s “crop” until the third
Thursday in August is a brilliant feat of marketing.
While
it is not polite to make fun of another country’s semi-national dish, surströmming
is not a universally loved food even among the Swedes, who, as the
description above suggests, either love it or hate it.
American
neighbors had purchased a can of surströmming at the local fisk
hallen which had been residing in their fridge just waiting to be shared
with guests they hoped would leave. Er, no, with equally adventurous friends.
So one Sunday night, we opened the can at our house.
One
thing became very clear: this is truly raw fish. Efforts to think of it as
simply Sushi Gone Bad were in vain. But we were all determined to go through
with it, buoyed by the knowledge that Swedes had been eating it for centuries,
and that we had a reservation at an Italian restaurant at 8:00.
To eat surströmming, Americans have to suspend all previous knowledge and
instinct, along with several millennia of good sense. It goes against
everything we know to eat stuff from an (a) bulging can that (b) screams
botulism and is (c) both raw AND rotten and that (d) smells like a global
plumbing disaster, and (e) is really slimy, never mind has an (f) high risk of
explosion, and that (g) - despite (a) through (f) - we should embrace as a
delicacy.
Eating
it right off a cracker with a dab of onion and a bit of sour cream as the
purists do (and we did as well) apparently takes years of training, and quite
possibly Swedish genes. One can also bury it in a casserole of potatoes (proportions
something along the lines of 200 to 1).
Surströmming is definitely an
acquired taste which neither Olof nor I acquired while in Sweden. But we
hadn’t been big fans of herring in general when we arrived and came to love non-surströmming
varieties.
We
discussed over the table what the history of surströmming might be.
It’s obviously been around a long time (literally and figuratively). It would
definitely have been the ultimate economical olden times party food. (One can
feeds 50 because the other 49 aren’t eating it.) Herring is certainly
plentiful so even in times of famine, there’s always going to be fish. In
fact, that is Olof’s personal theory about it all: that during the long harsh
Swedish winters when food was scarce, this was the fall-back food. It was eat
this or eat your children. (In my view, it must have been a hard decision.)
We
could imagine what life was like during those times: “Hey, kids! We’re having surströmming
again tonight! (And for breakfast, lunch, and dinner tomorrow.) Hmmm,
isn’t this just totally yummy? Oooh, and this batch tastes particularly rotten
– just the way mommy likes it!” Apparently salt (for curing) wasn’t widely
available and the production of this stuff required only a small amount of the
then-precious mineral which allegedly slows down the actual rotting process in
favor of fermentation.
Because the cans are fermented and bulging, they cannot be taken
on a commercial airliner in carry-on luggage as the cans could explode if the
cabin lost pressure. (Some airlines have apparently classified it in the same
category as shoe bombs, an act that Swedish aficionados of this raw fish
grenade term “culturally illiterate”). If a pilot
thought he had problems with cabin pressure, it would be nothing compared to
the passengers throwing open the emergency exits and bailing out of the plane
at 35,000 feet.