I have plenty of talents and I’m really not a bad cook so I’m not sure why I’ve never mastered baking. Maybe I gave up too easily when my pies ended up with the lattice crust floating like flotsam on a soupy apple sea. For years, I did everyone a favor by ordering pies from a local bakery at Thanksgiving until my younger son fortuitously married The Crust Whisperer.
One
of the things I have loved most about my sons’ marriages is being able to
incorporate traditions from the daughters-in-law’s families into our own. My younger son’s wife is from the East Coast
so she has spent virtually every Thanksgiving with us even when she and my son
were dating. She is a first-rate cook
and baker and her pies have become an essential part of our holiday.
My
mother was a wonderful baker too but died long before I had the opportunity to
really watch what she did. So I was
delighted when my daughter-in-law offered to teach me her family’s treasured
pie recipes. I sat in the kitchen and
took copious notes as she made the crusts and fillings. She told me which apples to use, and crust
tips like making sure the Crisco and the butter were really cold.
So
the next year, I was deeply honored when she asked if I could make the apple
and pumpkin pies from her recipes since she was busy with an infant. I intended to do her proud. Just as I go nuts if an editor mangles text
that is under my by-line, I knew that these pies represented her family. If your name is associated with it, you want
– nay, demand – that it live up to your standards.
In
retrospect, having my older son, Rory, help me was not the best idea. While successful in his career, Rory has
always had learning disabilities in math which could be problematical in cooking. It doesn’t help that he tends to confuse the
one cup measure for the two cup measure since they are both, after all, glass
containers and end in “cup.”
We
didn’t have dry measuring cups. Now, I
was prepared to argue this as a cup is a cup as far as volume is
concerned. Not necessarily in baking,
explained the daughter-in-law after the fact.
(She has to be the sweetest, most diplomatic person on the planet.) They
are indeed the same measurement. It is just easier to get an accurate measure
of dry ingredients in a dry measuring cup which you fill to the top and level
off with a straight edge. Even small
differences can change the outcome of a recipe, especially, she noted,
pointedly, in baking.
I still can’t figure out what
happened with the crusts. We genuinely
tried. Rory and I
chilled our dough thoroughly, as instructed, before rolling it out. We dusted the countertop and the rolling pin
liberally with flour. But the crusts
would disintegrate when we tried to pick them up, and after repeated re-roll-out
attempts – each one less successful than the last – they ultimately Super Glued
themselves to the counter surface. In
desperation, we finally just scraped the dough blobs off the counter and
pressed them into the pan. Alas, there
wasn’t really enough visible at the top to do any crimping. In fact, there wasn’t much dough peeking up
at all.
The
pumpkin pie, meanwhile, inexplicably listed to one side so that the filling was
spilling out on one side but not high enough on the other.
We couldn’t help but notice that
there was nothing about our pies that looked anything like her beautiful Sunset
Magazinesque versions. Not to place
blame anywhere, especially considering all my own previous failures with pie
crusts, but I do think that cup thing was a factor.
When
my daughter-in-law arrived on Thanksgiving morning and surveyed our work, she
heroically disguised her dismay. That her name – nay, her family’s name –
should be associated with these fruity fiascoes must have cut her to the
quick. But in her inimitable fashion,
she thanked us for baking, even gamely downed a piecelet of each that
night. My personal theory is that after
dinner, she got in her car, rolled up the windows, and screamed for 40 miles.
There
hasn’t been any mention of my making the pies since then, even though she is now
encumbered with two tiny kids. I’m sure she still wrings her hands at the memory
and wonders, how can people not follow
simple instructions? Rather than unleash
the Crust Killer and the Math Mangler on her recipes again, I think she’d make
those pies with the kids strapped to her body, and peel the apples with her
teeth. Even I would have to agree: if you want something done right, you have to
do it yourself.
Just
for the record, I got a set of dry measuring cups for Christmas that year.